Good Times are Rolling for NOLA

Super Bowl win…City coming back to life…To celebrate Mardi Gras, here’s a version of my New Orleans article that appeared in the latest issue of VERTICAL, Tampa Bay’s beautiful new online style magazine!

Go to http://www.verticaltampabay.com/ to see more of this gorgeous publication!

I like to get lost in the past.

Maybe that’s why I’m drawn to New Orleans time and again. Shacked up for a long weekend in the French Quarter, I can leave the 21st century behind. Its architecture—ramshackle plaster, ancient bricks, mysterious courtyards—works as well as any time machine.

Many of the hotels, although modern inside, are built around old bones that have existed for over a century. A favorite haunt is the Dauphine Orleans Hotel, a former 18th century townhouse and its adjoining bar, May Baily’s Place (once a well-known Storyville bordello).

Dining in the past is easy too—no shortage of joints doing what they’ve done best for decades.

• Café du Monde: frying perfect beignets and perking chicory coffee since 1862 (don’t wear the chic black turtleneck—it’s not so chic with a snowdrift of powdered sugar across your chest.)
(http://www.cafedumonde.com/)

• Central Grocery: est. 1906; this Italian market’s prized invention: the muffaletta—a whopping sandwich smothered in olive salad, ham, salami and cheeses.

• Fiorella’s: It’s been around since 1937 and I’d love to sample some of their Italian specialties but I can’t get past the spicy fried chicken.

Drink up—the Quarter abounds with bars and cocktails that go way back.

• Napoleon House, ca. 1914: Sipping a Pimm’s Cup in a dark corner booth is a great antidote to the hot Southern sun.

• The Roosevelt Hotel bar’s Ramos Gin Fizz (trademarked in 1935)

• The Swizzle Stick Bar inside Loew’s Hotel, where, if you ask nicely, their top notch bartender will mix an Aviation—a lavender-hued marvel that first landed around 1916. (http://www.cafeadelaide.com/)

Some fab new attractions steeped in history that couldn’t have a more appropriate home base than New Orleans:

• The Southern Food and Beverage Museum (SoFAB) fosters a newfound appreciation for that oyster po’boy.

• The Museum of the American Cocktail (part of SoFAB) highlights the evolution of mixology with well-preserved artifacts. (http://www.museumoftheamericancocktail.org/)

• Bustout Burlesque at the House of Blues: Glittery, bawdy fun in the best tradition of Bourbon Street’s famous 1950s nightclubs before they went to seed (see photo above). (www.bustoutburlesque.com/)

New Orleans’ trademark joie de vivre took a big hit in the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina. We can help with its continuing recovery by visiting and supporting the culture that gives us so much—music, art, cuisine, history—and teaches us how to let the good times roll, even when the times get tough.

NOLA's Slow Rebirth

The city’s still hurting.

It may be business as usual with crowds filling the French Quarter again but the joie de vive is definitely feeling a quart low. New Orleans seems just as mired in its economic, educational and political morass as ever, magnified by the poignant losses exposed in the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina, like pulling a band-aid off a nasty scab that was nowhere near being healed to begin with. Now the nation and the world have witnessed the grim, gritty, muck-infested reality of the people who live there.

The political corruption and socioeconomic quagmires stretch back across so many decades, better days will be a long time coming—IF the parties involved can make the kind of commitment necessary to bring about healthy change.

But there’s got to be something the rest of us can do. And there is.

Visit New Orleans. Support the culture that gives our nation so many unique gifts—in music, art, cuisine, history—and teaches us how to let the good times roll, even when the times get tough.

During a recent trip to New Orleans in the heat of summer, I was surprised and pleased to see the French Quarter teeming with life: families piling into the Audubon Aquarium, restaurants with interminable waits, new museums sprouting up here and there.

The Southern Food and Beverage Museum has taken up residence at one end of Riverwalk, the bland and touristy—albeit blissfully air conditioned—strip mall that parallels the Mississippi and cozies up to the convention center. Inside, visitors stroll through exhibits showcasing the delicacies of the region, giving greater understanding the next time one sits down in front of an oyster po’boy, a bowl of corn grits and other iconic foods of the South.

SoFAB is also home to the Museum of the American Cocktail—an outstanding collection of everything liquor-related spanning the centuries. Gorgeous displays highlight the evolution of mixology with well-preserved artifacts: bottles, glasses, shakers and other paraphernalia like recipe booklets, aprons and even the appropriate LPs to spin, creating the proper aural ambience for martini imbibing.

Halfway down Royal Street, past the tony antique emporiums, a Creole cottage-turned-storefront sports a shop dedicated to the Green Fairy, which as been making a resurgence of late. Nasty stuff, absinthe, but it conjures the romantic bohemian days of turn-of-the-last-century Paris. At the back of the little boutique, an intimate “museum” of sorts awaits, ready to share the history of the liqueur through artifact displays and a looping documentary.

There are new things to see along with old favorites, there’s still good food to be eaten, and May Baily’s still mixes the best Hurricane in town.

So go.