Buffalo Roundabout

The visitors’ center at the Darwin Martin Complex is one of the most lovely and intriguing I’ve ever seen. The modernist glass box doesn’t compete with the blocky residence yet it’s a design marvel in its own right.

We really loved the giant plasma touch screens hanging on one recessed wall. These techno marvels share information not only about the house, its architect and its inhabitants, but also the built environment of Buffalo itself, with interactive maps showcasing some of the highlights. The orientation video was projected onto a transparent glass wall in front of a row of benches. Trés cool.

The Darwin Martin House is said to be to be Wright’s finest example of his Prairie-style architecture. The family’s fortunes took a hit during the Great Depression and Darwin died in 1935, leaving his wife Isabelle saddled with debt. She closed up the house—she never really liked it—and retreated to the family’s summer estate (also designed by Wright) on the Lake Erie shore.

The city took ownership over unpaid taxes and it had several other uses until falling into disrepair, as great houses sometimes do, until it was rescued by a Wright-loving foundation that is raising money and restoring it to its former glory. Unfortunately, much of the house was off limits to regular tour guests because it’s in various stages of restoration, but we got to see the first floor and the reconstructed stable that is now the gift shop. The Gardener’s Cottage (below) represents an affordable and utilitarian residence designed for the working class man.

People seem to either love or hate Frank Lloyd Wright. His tumultuous, scandal-ridden life is really quite fascinating. I think in some cases, you can’t have that much genius without some accompanying madness.

I like his architecture—the geometric shapes are pleasing to the eye; the way they work within the landscape, and the scale and design are comforting. And it’s not all just straight lines and flat planes. He leaves plenty of room for finely crafted detail.

You can read more about Darwin Martin and the house that Frank built here: http://darwinmartinhouse.org/.

UP NEXT: Winging It (Or Not)

Buffalo Bound

After a while, I stopped telling people we were going to Buffalo and switched to Niagara Falls (another destination on our itinerary). That seemed to make it go down a little easier.

Why? Well, as you may know, Buffalo’s got a bit of a reputation for being a not-very-nice place—a city in decline, terrible winters…

But really—what place doesn’t have its list of negatives, which we all know are more entertaining to bitch about than the positives?

Conversely, there’s a self-satisfying pleasure in seeking out the good stuff—kind of like a cosmic treasure hunt that makes you feel a bit more connected to the beauty of the world and less affected by the ugliness.

We began and ended our recent trip to Western New York in the Buffalo area and I’ve got to say—our experience was pretty flawless. (Of course, my observations have also shown me that a lot has to do with the traveler’s attitude to begin with but that’s another story…)

Checking in, passing through security, and boarding our Southwest flight was a breeze—Tampa International is a great airport.

Likewise, the Buffalo airport was as easy to navigate as my friend and former Buffalo-gal-by-way-of-Williamsville, Carla, promised it would be. In one smooth twirl, we deplaned, swooped up our suitcases, and parked ourselves at the rental car counter just across from the baggage claim. Ten minutes later, we were hurtling down the interstate headed for our first destination…Frank Lloyd Wright’s Darwin Martin Complex.

Up next…Buffalo Roundabout